Malacatos Market Day

Today, I ventured to the next town's market day - every Sunday.

I jogged down to meet Jack and Julia at the end of their road where it meets the main road and flagged down the next bus; they come every 15 minutes or so:  $0.40

We got dropped off in their center square and we went down to the streets where the vendors and farmers were hawking their goods and foods, reminding me of Boston in the 70's when my aunto would take into Fenway and the vendors were shouting, "peanuts, cashews, balloons... quarrrrterrr, quarrrterrr!"

While their were some things we stay away form down here because they are definitely sprayed, the majority is fresh and organic... smaller than in the states, as most organic produce is, but also because of the sun exposure. Here, there are some vegetables that simply require that whacky change in the amount of sunlight as well as the exposure to the time of day. In other words, where our Northeastern exposure for summer gradually gains daylight and the sun starts increasingly early, then peaks and wanes providing a more appropriate exposure for certain vegetables: potatoes and onions and corn are among the few that require this in order to fully form. So these veggies are much smaller - better tasting, but much smaller.

I purchased 1.1xx lbs of some sea bass: $1.25
3 lbs of oranges, 15 sweet lemons, 2 lbs of limons, 4 lbs of ripe tomatoes for sauce, 3 small red onions, 1 lb of green onion with big bulbs, a pineapple, 4 ripe mangoes, a head each of iceberg, broccoli and cauliflower, 1 lb of peppers, 4 lbs of sweet potatoes and finally, 2 cukes: approx. $15

The most expensive things were the medium-sized bucket with cover: $5
heavy duty woven plastic bag with handles: $5
3 medium-sized screw on plastic containers: $3 total

The ride home in the taxi truck was a bit more: my share $3

Now I need a siesta. Caio.

Shooting Star

Last night I had a bit of a dry throat and didn't want to keep Mike up... besides, I was curious to see when they turned off the power for conservation. By the time I went to to bed around 1am, it was still on, so who knows. Or who cares for that matter.

I went out onto the little balcony and just stared at the sky, partially wishing I had the knowledge of astronomers, but mainly just enjoying the view. Even with the light pollution from this massively powerful street lamp a couple of blocks away, el cielo seemed close enough to touch and so packed with stars it seemed more like a Snickers than a Milky Way. I mean, the last time I felt this way about the clarity and abundance of the constellations was in Lake Tahoe, years ago.

I saw 2 shooting stars so vividly that I felt like it was literally right before my eyes. Much around here makes me smile for no other reason than I sense a belonging that has nothing to do with a social network. It's almost ethereal and it's absolutely palpable. It just "is" and I am not looking for it to be otherwise.

The Monkey Next Door (By: Mike)

The house next to us has a monkey.  When we go on the roof of the apartment we can see him in his cage.  If you dance side to side he will copy you.  I feel bad for the monkey and we have plotted to spring him lose, but probably never will.

View from the Roof (by: Mike)

Many of you have been asking for photos.  So I went up on the roof of the apartment we're renting and snapped off some shots covering the entire 360 degrees.  You can see the mountains that make up Vilcabamba.

If you look carefully you'll see the clock tower to the church.  That church is in the center square of Vilcabamba.

Bathing as of Late (by Nani)

Oddly enough, Mike hit the nail on the head... water pressure sucks because of the "drought".
So, after a couple of days of not showering because of the weirdness of our on-demand hot water situation, I braved the menopausal temperature changes and decided to make lemonade instead of fearing the process.

Well, it wasn't really lemonade, but I'm always up for some environmental challenge to see what I can make the best of and here was prime opportunity. I wasn't targeting the lounging sort of bath, but rather the Wild West type that the cowboys enjoyed after weeks in the crusty saddle. My needs were not so great, but I did require some level of cleanliness to visit our new friends and learn about bio-dynamic farming... or did I?

I had just about enough hot water to balance the need for enough liquid to bathe with a temperature that would be reasonably warm. And so my little mind calculated how much water I would need coupled with the priorities of body parts, with the one that God split down the middle - the last to be cleaned. I needed to see what I could pull off, so there it was. Approximately 2-1/4 inches of water. Approximately. I approached my task with a smile.... and nothing else.

And so, on my knees, firstly wetting the head/hair and thoroughly soaping with Dr. Bronner's tea tree (excellent for skin conditions and getting rid of microbes, should any be floating about on my nappy head). Secondly, (oh shit forgot to grab a wash cloth... my underwear needs to be washed... hmmm) grabbed the underwear from the floor without opening eyes and washing it as if I were camping down on the river. No doubt, cleaner than any washing machine could ever manage. Sure some of you may be saying, "ewww" perhaps, but in the grand scheme, I am a camper and we do what we need to under duress. Besides, who of us women have never had to get rid of an "accident" before, hmm?

Third step, fully lathering my newly converted wash cloth to soap the body, reserving the rinsing of it all to the end, and thoroughly washing the parts starting with the "cleaner parts" first: face, neck, ears, then arms, legs, middle, then pits and feet - of course, rinsing the "wash cloth" out along the way. And then, lastly, the aforementioned part that God made so we wouldn't poo all over ourselves. Check.

Of course I am rinsing, from the top down, using the somewhat clean water and feeling pretty happy with my accomplishment. I have conserved the triumvirate of time, energy and water and killed two birds with one stone. All in all, an excellent experiment-outcome, especially from one who has left her very deep tub/shower and bidet at home in New Hampshire.

I would liken our current living situation from where we came from, especially in this regard, as I would how we camp and how others RV.


Yup. This is me... sharing with you. Can ya handle it?

The Upside to Vilcabamaba (by Nani)

Oh yes, the upside is far more enticing - at least to me.

1. friendly people. I've not seen so many local people smile at me and wish me  "good day" and "how are you" since I was in Hawaii. They are helpful and will smile good-naturedly as I butcher their language to find something I want.

2. the weather. Never too hot, nor too cold, the climate is more than bearable... it's lovely. It hasn't rained yet since we've arrived, which is odd (see 9 in Downside).

3. fresh markets. Though it can be a challenge going from little corner store to little corner store to find just the right item, the weekly Sunday morning markets are a feast of organic, local produce, meats and such... mainly organic because they cannot afford the pesticides and fertilizer (ha!).

4. internationals. We have met nearly 50 people just this week. People are just friendlier here and are interested in who you are and where you come from. There’s a strange network of internationals who welcome thoughts and ideas about the world and spirituality. Discussion seems to be open and honest with no agenda except to communicate. And everyone is different... but the same in many respects. And everyone has a meandering, oniony story to tell.
Thus far: Australia, Britain, Korea, Japan, Germany, Canada, France, Belgium, America, Mexico, Romania, Brazil and California are represented, but no one wears their country on their sleeve.

5. commerce. We’ve come to discover that commerce here is very different from the states, even in the city. Vendors are interested in relationships, not just the transaction. In the states, we go straight for the transaction to get it over with for whatever reason – whether to get on our way or to get out of the vendor’s way so the next customer can buy something. It’s very impersonal. But, here they greet you and ask how you’re doing, your family, etc. and vice versa. Today, the ISP owner came to troubleshoot our connection. Mike offered him coffee and he accepted and drank it. He went about his work. Then as he was leaving, he mentioned he had to attend to his young son, and we asked about him, then we gave each other parting hugs. I mean, come on! Mike has always been like that, so his asking people how they’re doing is a natural fit. He’s a groovy gringo.

6. coconuts on the pavers. OK, here’s a weird one... every few times a day, I hear the knight approaching with the knave behind him clapping the empty coconut shells together. Nah... but that’s what I picture every time even though when I poke my head out onto the balcony I see a man on a horse or donkey, or even just a donkey running down the street to go home. It makes me smile, and I’ll never forget it as long as I live.

7. healing powers? This is a stretch for you non-believers, but I’ll put it out there anyway. People here seem to heal themselves. Now maybe it’s because that’s what they believe or rather, that’s their intention, but I think it happens to everyone, even if that’s not their intention. Names withheld, I have spoken to a women who was in a wheelchair when she arrived and now walks everywhere; also a woman who was born here, moved to the states for many years and was told she was terminal so came back to die... that was 20 years ago and she’s amazing now. In fact we were at a house party the other night and was dancing with her and some others to some really cool indigenous music.

8. spiritual. Most people won’t get this either, but this place holds some sway in the metaphysical sense. They are real energy healers, shamans and people who know how to rid a body of bad ju ju. And most of it is free because service to others is a really important mission and intention is everything.

9. money. Where we would normally tip an extra whatever amount, here only visitors and travellers tip. If you want to be accepted as local, you pay the tab as is unless some real extra work is done. This goes for taxis and food service. Also, as far as I know, vendors don’t do pennies (what a concept) and there’s no tax which would normally warrant cents to make sense. Friendly haggling is considered a part of most transactions, but I don’t like to do that, so I either smile and say ‘no gracias’ or just pay it if it’s fair. I’ve never been one to try to get the absolute best deal... takes too much energy.

10. the view. Sure, it’s like most vistas that I’ve seen in that it’s beautiful and serene and is everywhere. But I am not impressed by it – it’s just part of the package, like living in the Grand Canyon or something. But the stars are truly breathtaking at night. The sky is so crystal clear that you can just about see the entire galaxy as if it were right above you. And maybe it is... at 5 thousand feet.

The Downside to Vilcabamba? (by Nani)

Judge for yourself after I have stated my own perception... Good luck with that!

1. biting gnats. They make big welts and if you scratch... aigh! People wear long pants even when it's warm out! I am determined to find an anti-biting solution other than pantalones.

2. Internet is slow. Wireless is what we have though rumor has it that fiber is coming... Rumor indeed! I'm not sure how a government can make Internet access a priority over better roads. Oh, wait - what am I talking about? Is this the US?

3. no TP down the can, please. That's right... we do not flush the toilet paper down the hole. It's better for the plumbing and septic situation. It really doesn't smell up the bathroom and is more eco-friendly, so I'm all for it, though I will be using more than one square, Sheryl Crow.

4. no plumbing traps. OK, so there are some odors, but mainly from the plumbing (which I think can be better anyway). In Ecuador, they don't use septic vents and plumbing traps, so there can be a wafting of odors if you forget to use the plumbing covers for each "hole". We have strainers and plugs for each sink and tub or shower and keep them plugged when not in use. Pretty simple. Besides, I brought incense.

5. celebrations. Weekends are a major time for celebration. Libations, music. The town square seems to be a place that people hang out and celebrate life on Saturday nights and holidays. Did I say celebrate? I meant hang out and drink in public.

6. factory farming. There still exists an element of factory farming here, but on a smaller scale than the US. Much smaller. But even the eggs from these farms (called local) are much more orange than the store bought in the US - even the organic ones. We have learned that there is a "country" version for almost everything including milk, eggs and meats. It's called criollo. Getting to know our farmers is the key. And speaking the language probably wouldn't hurt.

7. water. The tap water here in town has a very light tinge to it - in large quantities, like in a tub bath (where Dec is now) it's noticeable. We brought our water filter, but the locals drink the water and are fine. A few days ago when we went to Pierre's property and drank from the river that comes straight from the mountains. It was clean and pure and no one got sick, Holly.

8. bureaucracy and information. Apparently, rules change all the time here. Visa requirements, especially. What may have been true yesterday may not be today... but isn't that the nature of life anyway? Be flexible and aware and things always work out. I always wanted to visit Peru anyway.

9. electricity. The main power here is run off of hydro, so we have occasionally experienced outages because there's not enough water right now to run it consistently given the draw, so they shut it off at night and one hour during the day. Once the rainy season kicks in, there will be more consistent running power, if not then I guess we'll just have to install a hamster wheel.

10. less than quality kitchen things. I don't think I'm a snob when it comes to pots, pans and knives, but holy shit if these aren't pieces of crap you'd get for your child to place house with! I mean, I wouldn't even take these things camping because they'd melt in the fire. Thinnest pieces of aluminum ever before seen with the thinnest coating of nasty Teflon that will peel at the sight of match. OK, drama aside, it really is poop. I'm sure the lack of boxite in this world would warrant a recall of all Ecuadorian pots and pans - for the greater good. I mean there's no way a piece of steel is more expensive. I refuse to believe it.